Brian Goodell

Beringer Wines: Finding the Greats Among the Glut
The Wine Guy

Beringer is one of those wineries that snobs love to hate. They have sold an insane amount of wine, both in the US and abroad, and are probably best known for White Zinfandel.

Acquired by Foster’s Brewing Group of Australia in 2000, Beringer remains the longest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. They produce a wide variety of varietals and blends under a number of brand names, and consistently rank at or near the top of restaurant wine sales throughout the United States.

So where’s the problem? As a fellow writer once said, they are perfectly capable of producing world class wine, but rarely choose to do so.

Beringer, like many others, seems satisfied to make large quantities of low priced wines that lack structure, complexity, or anything that sets them apart from other mass produced varietals.

If the name of the game is the bottom line, and these are getting it done for them, I can’t say I blame them from a purely business perspective. They haven’t stayed in business since 1876 by not selling wine, after all.

What frustrates me is that they can and do make some exceptionally good wine, but I find it hard to get past the brand name at times. Having endured too many glasses of “Stone Cellars” reds and whites in the past, I can now look at a bottle of what I know is a very good wine, but hesitate to buy it because of the association.

Any Beringer wine that indicates “Knight’s Valley” or “Private Reserve” on the label is going to be quite good. Some will be absolutely exceptional and can compare favorably with top Bordeaux.

One of these, in fact a Bordeaux blend, is Knight’s Valley Alluvium. This wine is about 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Malbec, Petite Verdot, and Cabernet Franc rounding out the remainder.

Alluvium is a fantastic mid-priced wine, with plenty of body and intensity to stand up to rich, heavy foods. At the same type, it is supple and smooth and will do just fine alongside simpler cuts of meat, and more everyday fare.

I consider it a great match with leg of lamb, but it accompanies a rare steak, or a beef stew with equal delight. It can be drunk young, but will certainly be good for a number of years in the cellar, if you wish to lay it down.

On the white side, Alluvium Blanc blends primarily Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, with varying percentages of minor partners in the mix. This wine is earthy on the nose, with a very warm mouthfeel.

It was tremendous with red snapper in lobster sauce on a recent occasion. I found it to be slightly overpowered by grilled salmon, but was very nice with a simple pasta salad as well.

At 14.1% alcohol, it is a big wine that definitely packs heat, but carries it as part and parcel of a crafted, well put together presentation. Alluvium Blanc is a lady who can party when she wants to, but will never embarrass you when style and class are on the menu.

Write me with your thoughts or questions at brian.goodell@morris.com. Until next time, happy pours.